LDS Freedom Forum

n8-r wrote:I am going to build a Crossbow out of 1 ton truck leaf springs using steel cable as the string. To give you an idea of the potency of this contraption............
a 90-100 lb compound bow has about 10 lbs of force per inch you pull it. So at 10" you have about 100 lbs of force.
A leaf spring has over 200 lbs of force per inch so you would have more than 20 times the power, speed, etc. of a compound hunting bow. A compound bow shoots an arrow around 300 fps, so theoretically you could shoot an arrow at over 6000 fps!!!!! That's twice the speed of an assault rifle bullet!! Now a normal arrow would probably shatter at these speeds and force, so I would have to make custom arrows. These would be heavier and bigger, so I would lose a bit of speed, maybe 1000 fps or so, perhaps less. Basically, you would not want to get shot with this crossbow. By the way, in case you were wondering, I am serious.

threepercentite wrote:make your swords out of the spring steel as well, they will rust and show discoloration but because of the high carbon spring steel they will hold and edge forever and are very hard to break.

I can also teach any locals who want to learn how to sword fight. I could teach in about 4 months enough to get you through fights (untouched) with about 97% of the people you would meet.

don't by replicas.

Bridgey wrote:The question is: HOw will you pull this 200 pd bow back and hold it with any accuracy. Why not go and buy a 55 to 60pd compound bow? I have one. Not too hard to hold back and will kill almost any living thing.

The ones they used at the olympics over a 75meter range went 200 plus km's an hour. They weren't compound but obviously powerful.

The question is: HOw will you pull this 200 pd bow back and hold it with any accuracy. Why not go and buy a 55 to 60pd compound bow? I have one. Not too hard to hold back and will kill almost any living thing.

The ones they used at the olympics over a 75meter range went 200 plus km's an hour. They weren't compound but obviously powerful.
The question is: HOw will you pull this 200 pd bow back and hold it with any accuracy. Why not go and buy a 55 to 60pd compound bow? I have one. Not too hard to hold back and will kill almost any living thing.

The ones they used at the olympics over a 75meter range went 200 plus km's an hour. They weren't compound but obviously powerful.

make your swords out of the spring steel as well, they will rust and show discoloration but because of the high carbon spring steel they will hold and edge forever and are very hard to break.

I can also teach any locals who want to learn how to sword fight. I could teach in about 4 months enough to get you through fights (untouched) with about 97% of the people you would meet.

don't by replicas.
make your swords out of the spring steel as well, they will rust and show discoloration but because of the high carbon spring steel they will hold and edge forever and are very hard to break.

I can also teach any locals who want to learn how to sword fight. I could teach in about 4 months enough to get you through fights (untouched) with about 97% of the people you would meet.

don't by replicas.

threepercentite wrote:make your swords out of the spring steel as well, they will rust and show discoloration but because of the high carbon spring steel they will hold and edge forever and are very hard to break.

I can also teach any locals who want to learn how to sword fight. I could teach in about 4 months enough to get you through fights (untouched) with about 97% of the people you would meet.

don't by replicas.

n8-r wrote:I did some digging as well and now plan on making some blades. Sweet!! I have and idea for the rust problem. Why not just use gun blueing compound ( the stuff that guns have on them to make them black). You can get it at walmart pretty cheap. Granted, it does come off from dings and scrapes, but you can just keep re-applying it as necessary.

Robert wrote: I have thought of parkerizing them, but cant find the courage to stick my favorite knives in the oven at 350. I know it probably wouldnt hurt. Blueing may be an option. We will see..

n8-r wrote:

Robert wrote: I have thought of parkerizing them, but cant find the courage to stick my favorite knives in the oven at 350. I know it probably wouldnt hurt. Blueing may be an option. We will see..

I don't think parkerizing would hurt them. It takes about 500 deg or higher to ruin the heat treat on steel I believe.

Should we learn basic sword, dagger, spear, axe, and bow skills? It might sound funny now but you never know.

Robert wrote:Threepercintite I have experience with basic hand to hand and knife fighting. I am 6' 2" and go from 285 to 300 lbs. I naturally bench 300lbs without training if I weightlift for a month I can easily get 350. I move good for a big guy but not like a 195 pounder. I run fast but dont consider myself to be super athletic. I give myself a 6.5 out of 10.

I am trying to figure out wich weapon I should practice with. Fenceing and melee may not be my strong point.

Anyway what weapon would you suggest? Just to start. I was thinking an axe. Dont know much about it.

n8-r wrote:

Robert wrote:Threepercintite I have experience with basic hand to hand and knife fighting. I am 6' 2" and go from 285 to 300 lbs. I naturally bench 300lbs without training if I weightlift for a month I can easily get 350. I move good for a big guy but not like a 195 pounder. I run fast but dont consider myself to be super athletic. I give myself a 6.5 out of 10.

I am trying to figure out wich weapon I should practice with. Fenceing and melee may not be my strong point.

Anyway what weapon would you suggest? Just to start. I was thinking an axe. Dont know much about it.

Threeepercentite would know better than me, but a spear type weapon might be good. How good is your throw? I read that spears were more common than swords for quite a while. Also, spears can be like swords on the end of a long stick, so if you have a lot of power swinging with all that leverage you could really do damage. Some one like you could also do MASSIVE damage with a big sword as well.

threepercentite wrote:

n8-r wrote:What about brute effective damage? Now that would be the combination. I agree with you Threeper. What do you think about throwing knives? Maybe these already exist, but I was thinking about having a short cord attached to the tang of the knife. you would use the cord to fling the knife, kinda like a sling. It would greatly increase the speed, I think, using leverage. I guess the downside is anything you throw, they could throw back at you. Although, it takes time to reach down and pick something up, and such a distraction would give you a second strike opportunity. I was thinking that I would like to have tiers of weaponry. I like the idea of throwing things at my enemy while he is approaching and then if that doesn't stop him, then using the spear. Then if that doesn't do it, Pull out the sword. If my sword breaks, then use a smaller knife. If that get's knocked out of my hand then resort to death by hand, riping out throat's gouging eye's, etc., assuming I don't get killed first.

as long as its "first" you can add any descriptive adjective to "effective damage" personally I prefer "casual". My students started calling it the "tic tac attack" because it uses "just one calorie"

it is always tiered. but I teach it as "zones"

someone always has a reach advantage of some sort. if you gain one by having a gun, bow, throwing knife, exct then your job is to maintain that advantage for as long as possible. anytime you can reach out and touch them and they cannot return the favor is the ideal. if you can keep this "distance" constant then it is a matter of time only till your victory. I call it your kill zone and their death zone. lets say they are 100 times better than you and so will block 100 attacks for every 1 that gets through. so if they are in this situation, you only need keep this distance long enough for 101 attacks.

distance is critical in manipulating time.

distance/time = speed

speed*distance = time

speed is manipulated by relative motion 10mph > + 10mph > = 0 mph relative
10mph > + 10mph< = 20mph relative closing distance
10mph < + 10mph > = 20mph relative opening distance.

where > indicates direction of travel.






. your sword shouldn't break if you know what you are doing.